Japan 2025, day 4: Osaka (evening)

The first stop was at an izakaya (the Japanese version of a tapas bar) that specializes in yakitori. My plate had grilled mushrooms, asparagus, and shisito peppers, although it’s more typically meat-based and the vegetables are used sparingly. The omnivores ate chicken and pork, but the tour guide was telling us that the izakaya also serves horse meat (!) and they would make it for us if enough people wanted it. Thankfully, there were no takers.

Anne: I see there were.

Anne: Yikes! Hope there wereveggie offerings for you.

Our tour guide, Natalie, shared lots of Shin-Sekai lore. One famous personality was this yakitori chef, who purportedly hated it when people would “double-dip” into the yakitori sauce. He would banish anyone who he caught doing this, so that they were never again allowed in his famous restaurant. Legend has it that he passed way during one of these “double dipping” induced rages.

Next up: udon with sweet tofu. Literally standing room only, as there’s only a counter and no bar stools to be found. We had to wait a few minutes as customers finished and spots opened up.

The elderly chef was a one-man show. Nobody else was in the kitchen with him, and he worked like a hyper-focused machine. But we earned a smile by telling him “Arigato…oishi desu” as we were leaving.

Anna and I shared a bowl. This worked out well but we did need to have a chopstick duel for the last bite of tofu.

Shin-sekai has a carnival atmosphere. It’s definitely a night spot.

Stop# 3: Takoyaki Ichiban food stall. These were better than the tayokaki earlier in the day; less sauce, not as gooey, and the garlic chips on top added another layer of flavor.

Anne: Yum!

They had a limited number of indoor seats, so our large party sat outside on stools chosen for the purpose of turnin’ and burnin’ (i.e., uncomfortable for a long period of time).

Anne: Wouldn’t be good for me!

Another angry chef! I’m sensing a little friendly rivalry with big sister Tokyo. Note the takoyaki pan in the lower portion of the picture. The chef would flip each one over with his chopsticks until they were brown and puffy. (I know, I know…that’s not the only thing he flipped!)

We stopped to admire the Tsutenkaku tower in the distance. Apparently you can take an elevator to the top and then slide back down. (Hmm, I think I’ll hold the bags…)

Billiken, the god of Good Fortune and also, it turns out, the mascot of St. Louis University. Go for figure! Casey and I were sure to follow the custom and scratch his feet for good fortune.

Snacks for the drinking. By this time, we were getting pooped but we forged ahead like the travelers we are. My yuzu sour helped keep me going!

The couple likes to travel, and they bring back whiskey from every place they visit. This is only some of their offerings! The bar continued with at least another hundred bottles.

Stop 4: A retro whiskey bar. The owners are a very stylish couple who must be in their 70’s; he was wearing a sharp fedora hat and she was sporting a beautiful coif reminiscent of a 1940’s screen star. In the background was a TV playing a young girl singing Western standards.

Anna looking at some non-X rated gotcha machines. You put a coin in and get a mystery trinket, similar to what we have in the U.S. Our tour guide warned us that the machines with a black cover (not shown here) are for 18+.

Don’t forget the yuzu sour (chuhai)!

Last stop! Fried appetizers and more drinks at a small kushikatsu place. Chicken wings, fried avocado, shrimp, and yam on a stick.